Bellin Arch today with a stake in Mandrea. In fact, the goal of the day was Oxygen, but the first shot completely Stonfo made us give up. Patience, it will be for another time. On the other hand on the back of the report to me fortunately I had the sketch of the Plan B, which is a way the trout that I had noticed last year by Men in (or?) Fog.
Certainly not a way to fallback on the beauty of the shots that sell. Climbing up the old-style gray plaques verdoniane worked (sparingly) to drop where there are still able to use their feet and not only the forearm. Démodé certainly like to climbers, lovers of holds small feet and technique.
a sure way to repeat and not so much engaged as described above, has all the characteristics of inland trout signed: beautiful, and can not give good protection.
is worth it especially for the fifth length, a gray slab of the most beautiful of Arc.
Attack: basically the first 4 meters of the road are shared with Moana Mon Amour. There is written at the base, but are clearly visible the first two fixes from the base, next to the slot start.
Material: via a well-equipped to fix 10 and along the routes that the stops (if equipped for descent). With just 13 referrals. Friends do not need. Nailing S2
Difficulty: 5c, 6b, 6c + and A1, 1 shot or 6c and 7a + A0. Required 6c.
Report:
L1: Replace the slot on the left, then navigate to the right and continue up to the beautiful blade stationary. 5c 25 meters, 3 fix
L2: For dihedral cracked, blocked by a fig tree and bush around the top half easily climb up to a roof served as a cordon to facilitate the clipping, you climb over the roof using a fine gocciona flares for the right hand. Navigate much left for 10 meters until stopped. 5c a sixth step 35 meters, 9 fix
L3: Plate photonics. Vertically for the first two fixes, then slightly left and then back straight. Towards the end of road on the left and then back across to the right with very technical climbing. 25 meters 6c, 7 fix
L4: Initially over parking plates a little 'grassy, \u200b\u200bbut beautiful. Easy the first part of the shot, the last two fixes most challenging. A little 'run out the last fix in rest, foot rubs and svasoni to take to get an edge broken out on the left. (I skipped the last shot of this fix, since I had not seen, was the most logical exit on the left). 30 meters 6b, 8 fix
L5: Super Shot plaque in photonics. This length alone is certainly worth the whole way. Start with a through hard, then loosen a bit '. Then about half a boulderino shot to enter the second section of the plate drops (sometimes very painful). Exit right at bumblebee following a knife to the end, then fall in plaque on the left then go straight easily stopped. 37 meters, 6c +. 12fix
L6: If the length of the previous enthusiasm, but it disappoints a bit '. You are forced to artificially large part of the shot, with an A1 cancaro that certainly penalizes the bass like me. First half of the shot 6b climbing, climbing up a pillar. Output parked helped by a white cord. 25 meters, 11
fix L7: Another nice shot on Grisons smooth spreadable beginning. In the fourth match of the fix if I remember there being a heavy boulder to be set slightly to the left and taking a small spallatina for the left hand. Then plaque still angry about the sequence of drops and holes. All for free 7a +, 6c and otherwise A0. 35 meters, 8 fix
L8: flying zone tables. Easy shot to the top, then more difficult at two roof. At first, it goes a bit 'left (the plant does not count!) Per second, is a bit' on the right (if any tape to A0). Kingdom L9. 40 meters, 6c. 10
fix L9: L8 joined without special friction. Output rock route (IV) 15 feet, 1 fix.
A report can be found here:
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